Curious to see how the ongoing war in Ukraine has affected the super rich, I visited one of the swankiest Russian restaurants in West London. The impact of the war has been felt across the world but one enclave of Russian culture in the capital appears to be carrying on as usual.
I wish I could say that Knightsbridge was an area I knew well but to be honest I felt like a fish out of water. It’s one of these areas defined by traffic blocked roads and wildly expensive shops, two things I really hate about city living.
But I was here to visit Mari Vanna, a Russian restaurant, to see how the war has affected them. Greeted at the door, when I asked if I’d need to book I was met with a scoff. Now this could have been a comment about the availability of tables or the fact my jeans were from H&M.
Either way I was led to a comfortable little table in the corner, perfect for watching the proceedings. The decor is like something out of a Tsarina’s tea room, with decorative fancies and pictures covering every wall and surface.
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(Image: Charlie L Jones)
Impressive chandeliers hung from the ceiling with Russian dolls on various benches and shelves. Although fairly empty when I first arrived it slowly filled up.
Most of the other guests spoke Russian apart from a large group of fairly young people who kept toasting to ‘parents’. I couldn’t work out if that was because they’d be picking up the bill or it was just an outpouring of familial love.
They started speaking about the war in Ukraine which felt on the nose in such a small room. But really this restaurant couldn’t have been further away from the battles on the streets of East Europe.
(Image: Charlie L Jones)
This was a world of wealth and even if war came to the streets of London I doubt the people coming in and out of here would have much to worry about. The sad truth is you could drop a dirty bomb in the East End and it’d be business as usual over in Knightsbridge.
I saw someone click their fingers at the poor waitress, something so performatively obnoxious it felt like something a Disney villain would do. The waitress’ smile didn’t falter for a second which shows her experience in dealing with such people.
Another person swanned in wearing a full tracksuit which you can only pull off in a fancy West London restaurant if you were insanely wealthy. All in all I felt out of place. Out of place in a restaurant made for the rich.
(Image: Charlie L Jones)
They claim to specialise in ‘babushka cooking’, food cooked at home by your grandma. But the price tags couldn’t have been less homely. I blinked and had spent over £40 on a bowl of Borscht and some Sturgeon. Both delicious of course but not for anyone without a bit of money to burn.
So life goes on Knightsbridge, where divisions aren’t over where you’re from. Russian, Ukrainian, Scottish or Saudi. It doesn’t matter. As long as you’ve got the money, doors will always be open and a waitress willing to take your crap.
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