Since joining the label after his previous tenure at Givenchy, Tisci has flipped and distorted the Burberry many people had come to recognise. While his predecessor Christopher Bailey was all about mingling military trench coats, chic tailored suiting and pleated trousers with his own squidgy, cashmere knits and wool jackets cut short at the waist, painterly lace-up loafers with crepe soles and Hockney-inspired colour palette, Tisci brought a hard-edged gothic, street-friendly vibe to Burbs. Notable looks during his years have included pleated ankle-grazing skirts, sleeveless leather gabardine waistcoats-cum-trench coats, boxy quilted jackets with matching skirts, and in one instance, models have rocked collegiate rugby shirts over trench coats. “We are a country that had the skinheads and the punks: we have a history of breaking down barriers, but at the same time there is the reality of English elegance,” Tisci told GQ last year, of his decision to zhuzz up the traditional Burberry image.
For SS’23, Tisci brought more of that glamour-heavy, perpendicular style. As the orchestra performed a specially-commissioned piece by Paul Mellor, and Kanye West stopped sounding off about his woes with Gap (caught on cam by several guests in attendance), the first womenswear looks were stomped down the catwalk: lace bodices worn with crunchy, thick-cut skirts, in the classic beige, brown and black Burberry has become synonymous with. A strikingly composed Naomi Campbell, who was the second model to walk, sported a safari-like short coach jacket (in beige, of course), paired with an Anne Boleyn-style, floor-skimming skirt and gothy, lace gloves. Elsewhere male models wore leather jackets that were wrapped cleverly around the waist with what appeared to be additional attached jackets (Ye was in one too). Sunburnt, rust-hued denim bomber jackets were emblazoned with Burberry branding in Blackletter fonts, while the Burberry check was presented in a darker, birch brown, and juxtaposed against the Equestrian Knight design, which was intrinsically embroidered into lace and used on the gloves, dresses and skirts, worn over floaty checked trousers by both male models, and the likes of supers Irina Shayk and Bella Hadid.